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==News About Feverfew== | ==News About Feverfew== | ||
'''Treatment and self-care for Migraine ''' | |||
*Source:http://www.sfgate.com/homeandgarden/article/Feverfew-s-readily-available-easily-grown-3276180.php | |||
:By Pam Peirce | |||
Plus, some ideas for replacing lawn to conserve water | |||
Q:I'd like to try making insect repellent with feverfew, but am having a hard time finding any. I noticed you wrote that you have some in your garden, so I thought you might know where I might find some. | |||
A: Feverfew is Tanacetum parthenium, formerly called Chrysanthemum parthenium. It has been tried for several medical complaints over the centuries, and its extract has been applied to the skin as an insect repellent, though I can't vouch for its effectiveness. | |||
This perennial plant, often grown ornamentally, is a foot or 2 tall, with feathery leaves and white, daisylike flower heads. Some varieties have chartreuse leaves, and these are often grown as foliage plants, with the flower heads picked off for maximum impact. Calls to a few local nurseries revealed that although they might not have feverfew in stock at the moment, they can easily order some if you ask for it. Because feverfew grows so quickly, a plant in a 4-inch pot is a better buy than one in a gallon pot. Feverfew is also easy to grow from seed. You can get seed from Renee's Garden (reneesgarden.com) and Botanical Interests (botanicalinterests.com), both of which sell online and in Bay Area nurseries. Feverfew that flowers often produces seedlings near the parent plant the following spring. I use these to replace old plants, which often look less attractive after the first year. | |||
Q:For several years I've been threatening to get rid of our front and back lawns. My prime concern is water, but energy is also a factor (mowing), along with the dandelions and gophers that insist on calling these areas home. | |||
I'm wondering if there's an easy, perhaps step-by-step way to make the conversion from sod to shrubs, grasses, rocks, whatever. I've considered covering the entire area with plastic, covering that with wood chips, and letting it sit there through the summer, hoping that this would kill both sod and weeds so that, in the fall, we could landscape with drought-resistant plants. Would this work? | |||
Both areas have sprinklers. With less thirsty plants, I figure we could turn them on just a few times through the summer. (We live in Lucas Valley, where the wind blows ferociously and dries out everything.) | |||
A: Your goal of replacing a lawn with more drought-tolerant plants is a good one. There isn't one answer to getting rid of the lawn, but here are some ideas: | |||
Some do the job by hand, using a flat-edged spade to cut small sections and then digging them. OK for small areas, backbreaking for large ones. | |||
Your idea of covering the lawn is good, but plastic forms an unwanted barrier to water and soil life. I suggest instead brown cardboard or at least six layers of newspaper (a bonus for newspaper subscribers). Mow the lawn short, then apply overlapping layers of either material, wetting them as you go. Cover with wood chips. In a few months, your lawn should be dead, but don't underestimate the ability of some grasses to creep under mulch and find a way to the light. | |||
Solarizing soil can kill a lawn along with weed seeds. It is done by watering the ground, then covering it with one or two layers of clear plastic for four to six weeks. However, in areas with typical summer temperatures of less than 80 degrees and strong summer winds, the sun won't be able to heat the soil enough for this method to work. | |||
Another option is to rent a tool known as a sod cutter that lifts strips of sod so you can roll them up and carry them away. It operates like a huge power mower. If you use this, be sure to mark your sprinkler heads with little flags (from an irrigation supplier) so you won't damage them. | |||
Sod cutting is fast, but you do end up with the removed sod. You can stack it grass-side down, moistening layers, and let it rot to compost. You can pile it where it will create berms, which can add interest to your garden and reduce runoff. If you put sod in municipal yard waste pickup tubs, you may need to remove attached soil first, and that is quite a job. However, you may be able to take it to the dump with soil attached. | |||
If you have dandelions, the cut taproots left in the ground after you remove the sod may regrow. Wait a few weeks and then dig the stragglers out by hand. | |||
Landscape advisers often suggest using a glyphosate herbicide, such as Roundup, either alone or before the mulch or the sod cutting methods. I'm assuming you'd rather not use an herbicide, and I think you can avoid it unless you have Bermuda grass, which is one of the most invasive and persistent weeds on earth. (Bermuda grass is a fine-leaved grass that has tough, wiry runners both above and belowground.) | |||
For drought-tolerant plant and design ideas, see the books "Plants and Landscapes for Summer Dry Climates of the San Francisco Bay Region" (EBMUD, 2004) and "California Native Plants for the Garden" by Carol Bornstein, David Fross and Bart O'Brien (Cachuma Press, 2005). | |||
Most experts advise converting a sprinkler system to drip irrigation for areas planted in shrubby plants, but there are some who would recommend using microspray emitters to water soil between California native plants (for example, see the Web site of Las Pilitas Nursery, laspilitas.com. (Click on "Classes" and on "Garden Myths About California Native Plants.") | |||
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'''Treatment and self-care for Migraine ''' | '''Treatment and self-care for Migraine ''' | ||
*Source:http://www.thehealthsite.com/diseases-conditions/treatment-and-self-care-for-migraine/ | *Source:http://www.thehealthsite.com/diseases-conditions/treatment-and-self-care-for-migraine/ | ||