Holidays in heaven
A journey to sultry Zamboanga
ON THE COVER, February -
March 2006
ON THE COVER, February -
March 2006
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I've long
suspected that Filipinos choose a holiday destination in the Philippines
for good food, cheap buys, and a beautiful beach. So why are we even talking of off-the-tourist-track Zamboanga? Admittedly, it appears not one Manila travel agency sells this southern city. Several big agencies such as Blue Horizons Travel and Tours, Rajah Tours Philippines, and Intas Destinations Management told InFlight that they were not offering Zamboanga packages. Rajah Tours president Jojo Clemente said the perceived image of Zamboanga “has to be rectified.” “We used to offer Zamboanga packages and Zamboanga was one of our popular tourist destinations many years ago,” he said. Not helping much is the south’s reputation as a hands-off destination for tourists because of security concerns. For Zamboanga, the reputation is generally unearned. People come and go to the city with- out an incident. Unless you make a concerted effort to find trouble, it won’t find you. Fancying myself as a holiday-in-hell seeker, I was thrilled to be offered a travel assignment to Zamboanga. Zamboanga, often dismissed by Filipino tourists, offers the three elements that make other destinations so popular. It has good food at budget prices, good shopping at barter centers – clothing and all types of goods from nearby Malaysia and Indonesia. And, it has beaches. While they may not have the powder- white sand of the Philippines’ most famous beaches, they are unsurpassed for snorkeling and spending a sun and sea holiday without the crowds. |
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To top it all, a
seven-day holiday in Zamboanga will cost you roughly P50,000 (US $962) for fare, accommodation, meals, and the regular tours, less the cost of spending a holiday in a more popular destination. Located on the westernmost peninsula of the island of Mindanao, Zamboanga is bounded by the Sulu Sea to the west, the Moro Gulf and the Celebes Sea to the east, and surrounded by a number of picturesque bays including Malasugat to the east and Caldera Bay to the west. With all that water and 130 kilometers of coast- line, it’s no surprise that the top draw at any restaurant table is seafood at unbelievably low prices. You have to try the tasty curacha, a deep sea hard shell that is half lobster and half crab. This sells for P140 per kilo at the wet market and P600 per kilo at Zamboanga Hai San Seafood Market and Restaurant. The curacha tastes like crabs but is more delicious. A lobster meal costs P1,800 per kilo compared to Manila’s P3,900 at Seafood Wharf Restaurant in Roxas Boulevard. And interesting enough, eight of the country’s sardine canning plants are here, supplying 80 percent of the country’s canned sardines. The tuna, lobster and crab trades all enjoy brisk business. Zamboanga’s cuisine is made even more colorful by the fact that it is a melting pot of people because of its proximity to other islands in Southeast Asia. In the early 13th and 14th centuries, it was a barter trading post between the Chinese-Malays and the native tribes Tausugs, Subanons, Samals and the Badjaus. When the Spaniards came, Filipinos from the provinces of Cavite, Cebu, Iloilo and Dapitan flocked to Zamboanga and made it their home. Out of this mixture of people came the vibrant Chabacano language, a mix of Spanish and Filipino dialects, as well as the area’s interesting mix of food. In most restaurants and households, the cuisine is a fusion of Creole Spanish and native, which means dishes that include coconut cream or milk and tamale or corn mixed with water and lard. Popular dishes include arroz valenciana or rice casserole, callos de andalucia, an innard delicacy cooked together with staple Spanish ingredients such as garbanzos and chorizo, and pochero, boiled beef or pork in broth with tomato sauce, garlic, potatoes, string beans, cabbage and sweet banana, all Spanish in origin. The city’s multi-cultural makeup also means native, Spanish, Chinese, Islamic, Japanese, other Asian as well as American dishes are available. |
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| Fort Pilar, photo by George Tapan | ||
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| A tree top retreat of Pasonanca Park, photo by George Tapan | ||
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| Badjau mat weavers in Pitogo, photo by George Tapan | ||
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Shopping is not your usual brand name shopping in cavernous airconditioned malls. It’s centered on food and interesting ethnic, tribal craft, including bright woven Muslim fabric, pearls and pearl products, Chinese porcelain, brassware and brass musical instruments. Go to the numerous small barter centers around the city, close to the downtown area or popularly known as the Guardia Nacional. The large barter center at Canelar is very much like a PX or duty free shop without the airconditioning and fixed prices. Most of the goods sold are from Malaysia, only a few hours away by boat or fast craft. There are imported shoes, blankets, malongs, crystals, food and various house ware and bric a brac. Also sold are colorful batik soft cotton pants, which cost about P100; a top with colorful prints, P150-P300; and malongs, a large cloth tube traditionally used by Muslims as a wraparound skirt. Traditional ceremonial malongs cost from P10,000 to P20,000. The modern malong costs from P150 to P250. You might also want to try the sawal, a loose hip hop elephant pants used by Muslims during prayer. At the Lantaka Hotel’s seawall (Lantaka Hotel is at NS Valderosa St., Zamboanga City; tel: 062/ 991 2033-35), several vintas are moored, selling brush and brain corals, cowry and cone, conch and clam, tambuli and turban shells. Also on sale are red, white and black coral necklaces and black coral bracelets and bundles of pandanus mats that display geometric patterns in bright colors. |
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| photos by Erik Liongoren | ||
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In the
early 13th and 14th centuries, Zamboanga was a barter trading post between the Chinese- Malays and the native tribe Tausugs, Subanons, Samals and the Badjaus |
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Zamboanga,
often dismissed by Filipino tourists, offers the three elements that make
other destinations so popular. PTM Boutique at the Lantaka Hotel also sells pearls and gemstones set in silver and gold. About 20 minutes from the downtown area you’ll reach the Yakan Weaving Village and Showroom in Upper Calarian. For sale are woven textiles in a variety of bright colors, some patterned after the traditional Muslim geometric design and some taking on more monotone modern designs. You can buy textile by the yard or ready made products such as placemats, table runners, coasters and tablecloth, among others. After a tour of the shopping places and the city’s landmarks during your first few days in Zamboanga, devote some time for a 30-minute boat ride to the Great Santa Cruz Island for a chance to see its pink beach, a mix of finely ground red coral and creamy sand. Close to the shore the water is shallow, but do not venture too far out as there is a sharp drop and the current of the adjacent Basilan Strait is strong. |
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The beach itself is agreeably flat with a stand of trees close to the shore. Under the trees are roofed picnic tables available from P100-P300 a day, depending on the size of the table. The local tourism charges an entrance fee of P20 per person to cover maintenance of the toilets and other facilities. Not too many people frequent the beach so you’ll have the beach pretty much to yourself and your friends or family. Near the Great Santa Cruz Island is the Little Santa Cruz Island, which has a white- sand beach and waters that are good for snorkeling and scuba diving. You can get to Great Santa Cruz by chartered pump boat (P700 roundtrip), which can be booked through the Philippine Tourism Office (062/ 992 3007). The best time to visit is in the morning when the waves are relatively small – it’s still a channel crossing – and it is advisable to leave before two in the afternoon to avoid the large waves that form later in the day. A small sandbar can be found about two thirds of the way to Great Santa Cruz. Four days and three nights in this southern city is not enough. An ideal length of stay would be seven days to allow one to soak in the sights at leisure. If one is not too bothered about being active, the hotel swimming pool and the spas are always a relaxing bet. |
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| By Wacky Gochoco | ||