Holidays in heaven

A journey to sultry Zamboanga

ON THE COVER, February - March 2006
 

I've long suspected that Filipinos choose a holiday destination in the Philippines for good food,
cheap buys, and a beautiful beach. So why are we even talking of off-the-tourist-track
Zamboanga?


Admittedly, it appears not one Manila travel agency sells this southern city. Several big agencies such
as Blue Horizons Travel and Tours, Rajah Tours Philippines, and Intas Destinations Management told
InFlight that they were not offering Zamboanga packages. Rajah Tours president Jojo Clemente said
the perceived image of Zamboanga “has to be rectified.” “We used to offer Zamboanga packages and
Zamboanga was one of our popular tourist destinations many years ago,” he said.

Not helping much is the south’s reputation as a hands-off destination for tourists because of security
concerns. For Zamboanga, the reputation is generally unearned. People come and go to the city with-
out an incident. Unless you make a concerted effort to find trouble, it won’t find you.

Fancying myself as a holiday-in-hell seeker, I was thrilled to be offered a travel assignment to
Zamboanga.

Zamboanga, often dismissed by Filipino tourists, offers the three elements that make other destinations
so popular. It has good food at budget prices, good shopping at barter centers – clothing and all types of
goods from nearby Malaysia and Indonesia. And, it has beaches. While they may not have the powder-
white sand of the Philippines’ most famous beaches, they are unsurpassed for snorkeling and spending
a sun and sea holiday without the crowds.


 
To top it all, a seven-day holiday in Zamboanga
will cost you roughly P50,000 (US $962) for fare,
accommodation, meals, and the regular tours,
less the cost of spending a holiday in a more
popular destination.

Located on the westernmost peninsula of the
island of Mindanao, Zamboanga is bounded by
the Sulu Sea to the west, the Moro Gulf and the
Celebes Sea to the east, and surrounded by a
number of picturesque bays including Malasugat
to the east and Caldera Bay to the west.

With all that water and 130 kilometers of coast-
line, it’s no surprise that the top draw at any
restaurant table is seafood at unbelievably low
prices. You have to try the tasty curacha, a deep
sea hard shell that is half lobster and half crab.
This sells for P140 per kilo at the wet market
and P600 per kilo at Zamboanga Hai San
Seafood Market and Restaurant. The curacha
tastes like crabs but is more delicious. A lobster
meal costs P1,800 per kilo compared to Manila’s
P3,900 at Seafood Wharf Restaurant in Roxas
Boulevard.

And interesting enough, eight of the country’s
sardine canning plants are here, supplying 80
percent of the country’s canned sardines. The
tuna, lobster and crab trades all enjoy brisk
business.

Zamboanga’s cuisine is made even more
colorful by the fact that it is a melting pot of
people because of its proximity to other islands
in Southeast Asia.

In the early 13th and 14th centuries, it was a
barter trading post between the Chinese-Malays
and the native tribes Tausugs, Subanons,
Samals and the Badjaus. When the Spaniards
came, Filipinos from the provinces of Cavite,
Cebu, Iloilo and Dapitan flocked to Zamboanga
and made it their home. Out of this mixture of
people came the vibrant Chabacano language, a
mix of Spanish and Filipino dialects, as well as
the area’s interesting mix of food.

In most restaurants and households, the cuisine
is a fusion of Creole Spanish and native, which
means dishes that include coconut cream or
milk and tamale or corn mixed with water and
lard. Popular dishes include arroz valenciana or
rice casserole, callos de andalucia, an innard
delicacy cooked together with staple Spanish
ingredients such as garbanzos and chorizo, and
pochero, boiled beef or pork in broth with tomato
sauce, garlic, potatoes, string beans, cabbage
and sweet banana, all Spanish in origin.

The city’s multi-cultural makeup also means
native, Spanish, Chinese, Islamic, Japanese,
other Asian as well as American dishes are
available.
Fort Pilar, photo by George Tapan
A tree top retreat of Pasonanca Park, photo by George Tapan
Badjau mat weavers in Pitogo, photo by George Tapan

Shopping
is not your usual brand name shopping in
cavernous airconditioned malls. It’s centered on food
and interesting ethnic, tribal craft, including bright
woven Muslim fabric, pearls and pearl products,
Chinese porcelain, brassware and brass musical
instruments.

Go to the numerous small barter centers around the
city, close to the downtown area or popularly known
as the Guardia Nacional. The large barter center at
Canelar
is very much like a PX or duty free shop
without the airconditioning and fixed prices. Most of
the goods sold are from Malaysia, only a few hours
away by boat or fast craft. There are imported shoes,
blankets, malongs, crystals, food and various house
ware and bric a brac. Also sold are colorful batik soft
cotton pants, which cost about P100; a top with
colorful prints, P150-P300; and malongs, a large cloth
tube traditionally used by Muslims as a wraparound
skirt. Traditional ceremonial malongs cost from
P10,000 to P20,000. The modern malong costs from
P150 to P250. You might also want to try the sawal,
a loose hip hop elephant pants used by Muslims
during prayer.

At the Lantaka Hotel’s seawall (Lantaka Hotel is at
NS Valderosa St., Zamboanga City; tel: 062/ 991
2033-35), several vintas are moored, selling brush and
brain corals, cowry and cone, conch and clam,
tambuli and turban shells. Also on sale are red, white
and black coral necklaces and black coral bracelets
and bundles of pandanus mats that display geometric
patterns in bright colors.
photos by Erik Liongoren
In the early 13th and 14th centuries,
Zamboanga was a barter trading post
between the Chinese- Malays and the
native tribe Tausugs, Subanons,
Samals and the Badjaus
Zamboanga, often dismissed by Filipino tourists, offers the three elements that make other destinations so popular.

PTM Boutique at the Lantaka Hotel also sells pearls and gemstones set in silver and gold. About 20
minutes from the downtown area you’ll reach the Yakan Weaving Village and Showroom in Upper
Calarian. For sale are woven textiles in a variety of bright colors, some patterned after the traditional
Muslim geometric design and some taking on more monotone modern designs. You can buy textile by
the yard or ready made products such as placemats, table runners, coasters and tablecloth, among
others.

After a tour of the shopping places and the city’s landmarks during your first few days in Zamboanga,
devote some time for a 30-minute boat ride to the Great Santa Cruz Island for a chance to see its pink
beach, a mix of finely ground red coral and creamy sand. Close to the shore the water is shallow, but do
not venture too far out as there is a sharp drop and the current of the adjacent Basilan Strait is strong.

 
DID YOU KNOW?

- At one time Zamboanga was the largest city in the world in terms of land area. Today, its borders cover
148,000 hectares including 25 islands.

- The city's 600,000 population is comprised of 65 percent Christians and 35 percent Muslims.

- During the month of October, the city celebrates the Hermosa Festival with a race of colorful vintas or the Regade de Zamboanga, street dancing, and a Seafood Festival.

The beach itself is agreeably flat with a stand of trees close to the shore. Under the trees are roofed
picnic tables available from P100-P300 a day, depending on the size of the table. The local tourism
charges an entrance fee of P20 per person to cover maintenance of the toilets and other facilities.

Not too many people frequent the beach so you’ll have the beach pretty much to yourself and your
friends or family. Near the Great Santa Cruz Island is the Little Santa Cruz Island, which has a white-
sand beach and waters that are good for snorkeling and scuba diving.

You can get to Great Santa Cruz by chartered pump boat (P700 roundtrip), which can be booked
through the Philippine Tourism Office (062/ 992 3007). The best time to visit is in the morning when the
waves are relatively small – it’s still a channel crossing – and it is advisable to leave before two in the
afternoon to avoid the large waves that form later in the day. A small sandbar can be found about two
thirds of the way to Great Santa Cruz.

Four days and three nights in this southern city is not enough. An ideal length of stay would be seven
days to allow one to soak in the sights at leisure. If one is not too bothered about being active, the hotel
swimming pool and the spas are always a relaxing bet.
By Wacky Gochoco